Shocks coil wheel rattle

[nam]

How is that classed? Replaced control arm in 208, links, rods, top mount. Wheel can be sometimes shaken but no measurable play i think (i mean if it happens it is felt a lot) but it can be easily felt as well as loud knock here and there from the area. I suspect some kind of bushing that holds shock in actual coil seat as the end of spring can “rattle” sometimes as mentioned while secured in correct position. Can partially detached rubber cover on this spring end cause all that, is that cover any issue (other than premature wear obviously of the seat or spring)? But as the play is felt but not really i think possible to measure it could this even be a fail? Done my best but i am not feeling like buying new shocks, dismantling all that to now replace the shock as it should be just noisy and obviously puting more wear on the top mount like on old one that was pretty worn and fully loose but at some point obviously would replace it. the test is soon and wondering, cheers.

[rocket]

It will be the piston on the strut knocking on the upstroke had this before

[nam]

So that should be no issue as for the test? As ot would probably rattle on the bounce test but no more of those so is it a pass? The wheel can sometimes be shaken which feels not great hence why iam wondering

Edit, and the shocks are working well as well as other suspension comps.

[rocket]

We don’t do the bounce test anymore you should be ok

[nam]

Thanks! Is that common on other cars or some kind of weak shocks? Never had this happen but actually top mount with ripped bush could have caused it to be fair as drove with bad one for few thousand miles and before that no idea for how long someone else did

[rocket]

To be honest I’ve only seen it on Peugeot model s

[rocket]

nam when I'm asked to investigate a knocking noise I do this a quick road test then on the MOT ramp and check it and try to find a fault some time it's not evident sometimes not without a full strip down I'm going of previous faults I've had 

[rocket]

I had Peugeot 3008 with this top strut mounts metal insert un bonded with the the rubber you think ok I've found it ok when you push the piston on the shocker it seems ok but knocks on the up stroke so I've had to do the job twice I don't like fitting parts for fun and expence tells me to tell the customer all or nothing

[nam]

Exactly what i have done and had the mount split too only on one side frankly and the other one is still strong so in the future shocks to change i see bit weird that, left side only

[Dynamo]

The internal design of front struts appears to have changed for some technical reason? I've never in my working life seen sruts internal tubes becomes detached in operation while driving, however, that has changed. 

                                                


The above is the worst case I've ever seen, total detachment. I had to use spring compressors to hold and compress the spring while I tried to safely remove a detached strut....

[Dynamo]

After safely removing the strut, the tube can be seen which has a screw thread at the bottom. This obviously works loose over time and is the cause of the knock. 


 

This is the strut tube showing the thread at the lower section. This cannot be visually inspected and sometimes can't be experienced as a problem on the ramp either!

In the times we live, when changing broken springs, its probably safer to change the strut and spring as a combined unit. 

I've had two near misses and one long appointment is hospital because of exploded struts and springs. 

Also be aware of springs they call "Bananna" springs. Very difficult to align and fit in conventional spring compressors, whether bench mounted or floor standing. I've had my share of them. No matter what the industry says, I think they are re-jects from industry that can't afford to throw them out nowadays so sell them on cheaper to keep the revenue coming in. 

[nitros44]

What's the rejects ,springs or struts ?

[David]

Oct 6, 2024 17:55:31 GMT 1 Dynamo said:

After safely removing the strut, the tube can be seen which has a screw thread at the bottom. This obviously works loose over time and is the cause of the knock. 


View Attachment 

This is the strut tube showing the thread at the lower section. This cannot be visually inspected and sometimes can't be experienced as a problem on the ramp either!

In the times we live, when changing broken springs, its probably safer to change the strut and spring as a combined unit. 

I've had two near misses and one long appointment is hospital because of exploded struts and springs. 

Also be aware of springs they call "Bananna" springs. Very difficult to align and fit in conventional spring compressors, whether bench mounted or floor standing. I've had my share of them. No matter what the industry says, I think they are re-jects from industry that can't afford to throw them out nowadays so sell them on cheaper to keep the revenue coming in. 

Where do you buy your parts?

[nitros44]

Oct 6, 2024 17:55:31 GMT 1 Dynamo said:

After safely removing the strut, the tube can be seen which has a screw thread at the bottom. This obviously works loose over time and is the cause of the knock. 


View Attachment 

This is the strut tube showing the thread at the lower section. This cannot be visually inspected and sometimes can't be experienced as a problem on the ramp either!

In the times we live, when changing broken springs, its probably safer to change the strut and spring as a combined unit. 

I've had two near misses and one long appointment is hospital because of exploded struts and springs. 

Also be aware of springs they call "Bananna" springs. Very difficult to align and fit in conventional spring compressors, whether bench mounted or floor standing. I've had my share of them. No matter what the industry says, I think they are re-jects from industry that can't afford to throw them out nowadays so sell them on cheaper to keep the revenue coming in. 

Springs are bent on purpose

Your example is not due to faulty parts .
The reason why the strut is like that is because someone,sometime has tried to remove the top strut nut and not held the piston to stop it from rotating,hence this loosens the bottom fastener .

It may not become apparent at that time ,but will end up within time knocking or become detached.

[rocket]

Had a 15 plate 2008 in for MOT and knocking noise osf with 81 K on it I found the fault on the MOT test play in the bottom ball joint it's in for that Fault to be fixed plus a MOT so boarder line pass If I pass and advise it we fix this fault and NO knocking noise on repairs customer says you have replaced this why is this a advisory For the MOT

[nam]

Oct 6, 2024 18:45:09 GMT 1 nitros44 said:

What's the rejects ,springs or struts ?

For me been no issue but waiting for the new shocks and will replace because literally can move the wheel with my hands when car on the ground with this often knock there so… design really not nice that

[nam]

Oct 6, 2024 17:55:31 GMT 1 Dynamo said:

After safely removing the strut, the tube can be seen which has a screw thread at the bottom. This obviously works loose over time and is the cause of the knock. 


View Attachment 

This is the strut tube showing the thread at the lower section. This cannot be visually inspected and sometimes can't be experienced as a problem on the ramp either!

In the times we live, when changing broken springs, its probably safer to change the strut and spring as a combined unit. 

I've had two near misses and one long appointment is hospital because of exploded struts and springs. 

Also be aware of springs they call "Bananna" springs. Very difficult to align and fit in conventional spring compressors, whether bench mounted or floor standing. I've had my share of them. No matter what the industry says, I think they are re-jects from industry that can't afford to throw them out nowadays so sell them on cheaper to keep the revenue coming in. 

I am not sure if i get this right but the play comes probably after the tube makes its space but it is too quick for that i guess to be that present (atlleast in my case suspension brand new from about 100000 miles ago not touched once looked like). But i guess maybe just tightening it down as the tube spins inside the shock could fix it? There should be some thread grabbing it was it fully gone? It looks pretty long and it is not M1 so should be a bit stronger sorry if i am not getting it right but curious so i ask, cheers

[dizzydiver]

Inner track rod ends can cause a knocking noise, when they develop a bit of wear in the ball joints.

[aylesburyjock]

Yes, but that's usually quite simple to find.

[nam]

Replaced almost all front susp. Including inner rods and previous ones had no play and been good. Only wear was in this one strut (and still is), the top mount pin that torn from the rubber with about half mm play around it and apart of that rear wishbone bush was torn from sleeve on outside part (still solid rubber but not good anymore, glue for that pointless due to the age of it anyway so replaced all apart of bar bushings and them struts/springs are still same).

So any way to tighten it down by spinning the rod i guess? If it is threaded down there i guess it is not the thread letting go but rather than that it is unscrewing somehow also at the same time lifting the frame? For example the tie rods when new screws into the ends and the play is there but as soon as you touch the lock nut on them the play is gone and experienced it already with a few so maybe turning the rod to the full stop will fix that? As effectively this should make one spring being longer? That is exactly what i feel that the car is lower on the right with slight alignment pull when should be none